I’ve been in Srinagar, Kashmir for about a week now and have just started to get a rhythm going. The workday here starts late and ends early—I get into the office around 11:30 (and yes it is a hazy approximate rather than any kind of fixed deadline), and leave by 4 with an hour-long break in the middle. I usually start my morning walking the block and half from my guesthouse to the fancier Green Acre where Justine, my boss, is staying. We eat a lazy breakfast of fresh papaya and fried eggs, chatting about the current situation in Kashmir, the rise of BJP in India, the war zone of the 90s, or some kind of avant-garde psychological analysis.